Concept of the Curly Girl Method and CG Product lists

Hello Curly’s

It’s been several months since my last posting. First I would like to wish all an apology , for not posting often as I should. I have beeb busy these last several months trying to go back to college, especially after 30 years.  I have been accepted for the fall 2013 at the Lanier Technical college in the Esthetician certificate program.   So, I will have some additional things to blog about; in addition to naturally curly hair.

Ok, lets get to the concept of the Curly Girl method, shall we.  Since my last posting I wrote about sulfates in shampoo and the curly girl method.  The concept of the CG method is that wavy, curly, coily and kinky hair needs gentle cleansing and conditioner on the hair. The conditioner(s) and essentials oils acts as a barrier to minimize  or combat our curly girl arch enemy “Frizz”. Once your hair is cleansed with a No-poo  shampoo or cleanser. The conditioner acts as barrier to help minimize frizziness., when left on the hair, scrunch  the excess conditioner and or dilute (if needed and base on curl type), apply gel and or clips to portions to hair that need a little volume (optional and based on curl type if needed) and let your hair dry. As the Beatles song goes “let it be”  your hair that is, while it’s trying to dry. Touching your hair while your hair is trying to set and dry causes frizz, so Keep your hand, fingers out of your hair.  Once the hair is dried, fluff and style hair as desired.

Here are a few links of Curly Girl approved products:

http://afrolatinaisbeautiful.blogspot.com/p/list-of-drugstore-curly-girl-approved.

Here are links to some curly girl products that have been mentioned and recommended in the by fellow curly girls: 

http://www.naturallycurly.com/curltalk/general-discussion-about-curly-hair

 

Here are some products to use and some to Avoid on the Curly girl method.

Ingredients to Avoid 

Even if you think a product is CG, it is a good idea to scan the ingredients before buying.

Sulfates

Before beginning the method you will need to clarify with a sulfate poo that has no cones (such as Suave Clarifying Shampoo). Past that you should avoid the sulfates if you are looking for an occasional shampoo for use after swimming in chlorinated water or for removing buildup/grease.

Harsh sulfates to avoid:
Alkylbenzene sulfonate
Ammonium laureth or lauryl sulfate
Ammonium or Sodium Xylenesulfonate
Sodium C14-16 Olefin Sulfonate
Sodium cocoyl sarcosinate
Sodium laureth, myreth, or lauryl sulfate
Sodium lauryl sulfoacetate
TEA-dodecylbenzenesulfonate
Ethyl PEG-15 cocamine sulfate
Dioctyl sodium sulfosuccinate

** Polyquats** have been questioned.   Here are a few  articles links about polyquats in shampoos, conditioners and other hair products by naturallycurly.com -

www.naturallycurly.com/curlreading/curl-products/curlchemist-polyquats-as-conditioning-agents

www.naturallycurly.com/curlreading/curl-products/curlchemist-polyquats-as-conditioning-agents

Here is more info:

Mild cleansers:
Cocamidopropyl betaine
Coco betaine
Cocoamphoacetate
Cocoamphodipropionate
Disodium cocoamphodiacetate or cocoamphodipropionate
Lauroamphoacetate
Sodium cocoyl isethionate

Silicones

Once you no longer have harsh sulfates in your hair care routine, you need to cut out the silicones (also called “cones”). Most of the highly commercialized lines of hair products (Pantene, Herbal Essence, Garnier Fructis, Aussie, Tresseme, Sunsilk, etc.) contain silicones. These are ingredients that generally end in -cone, -conol, or -xane. If at all possible, avoid silicones in your hair products.

In the short term, silicones will make hair look sleeker and less frizzy, but in the long run they will coat the hair shaft of porous curly hair and seal out moisture, causing the hair to become straw-like, less defined, and frizzy. Hence, silicones make quick fixes for frizz, but over time, they are truly damaging your hair. Sulfates get rid of silicones, but at the expense of completely stripping your hair of all of its natural oils!

The solution to these problems is to eliminate both sulfates (in your shampoos) and silicones (in your conditioners and styling products). An exception to this rule: if a silicone has “PEG” in front of it, it is water-soluble and will not cause product build up.
Silicones that are not soluble in water and build up on the hair:
Cetearyl methicone
Cetyl Dimethicone
Cyclomethicone
Cyclopentasiloxane
Dimethicone
Dimethiconol
Stearyl Dimethicone
Trimethylsilylamodimethicone
Amodimethicone (and) Trideceth-12 (and) Cetrimonium Chloride

  • Note: Trideceth-12 and Cetrimonium Chloride are only considered a silcone when both are combined with Amodimethicone.

Silicones that are slightly soluble in water and will build up on most types of curly hair:
Amodimethicone
Behenoxy Dimethicone
Stearoxy Dimethicone
Silicones that are soluble in water and safe to use (these are not listed with PEG in front of them):
Dimethicone Copolyol
Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein Hydroxypropyl Polysiloxane
Lauryl methicone copolyol.

Proteins 

You’ve probably heard a little hype about proteins at this point. If you’re just starting CG, your hair needs protein to recover from damage and build healthy hair. If you are not just beginning and your hair is in good condition too many proteins can result in dry, stiff hair–protein build up. Every curlie needs some protein in their routine, but some are more sensitive than others.
Common proteins found in hair ingredients:
Cocodimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed casein
Cocodimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed collagen, Cocodimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed hair keratin
Cocodimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed keratin
Cocodimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed rice protein
Cocodimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed silk
Cocodimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed soy protein
Cocodimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed wheat protein
Cocodimonium hydroxypropyl silk amino acids
Cocoyl hydrolyzed collagen
Cocoyl hydrolyzed keratin
Hydrolyzed keratin
Hydrolyzed oat flour
Hydrolyzed silk
Hydrolyzed silk protein
Hydrolyzed soy protein
Hydrolyzed wheat protein
Hydrolyzed wheat protein
Keratin
Potassium cocoyl hydrolyzed collagen
TEA-cocoyl hydrolyzed collagen
TEA-cocoyl hydrolyzed soy protein

General Tips

  • Check out your local health food or organic specialty store for natural hair products. A lot of the shampoos are sulfate free and products often don’t contain silicones. Some good brands include Aubrey Organics, Desert Essences, Nature’s Gate, TJ Nourish, Giovanni, Kinky Curly, and Jane Carter.
  • Gentle sufate-free shampoos include DevaCurl No-Poo, Giovanni Tea Treat Shampoo, and Cream of Nature Shampoo. These should only be used at most once a week, because they are still drying to the hair.
  • Some good gels include the Herbal Essences gels, LA Looks gels, Biosilk Rock Hard Gelee, and Devacurl Angell or Arcangell, IC Fantasia Gel, and Curly Hair Solutions Curl Keeper.
  • Some good leave-in creams are L’Oreal Out of Bed Weightless Texturizer, Jessicurl Confident Curls Styling Solution, Boots Essentials Curling Cream, Joico Joiwhip Moose, MOP-C curl cream, Kinky Curly Knot Today Leave-in COnditioner, and Giovanni Direct Leave In Conditioner.
  • A good moisturizing conditioner is essential. Some suggestions are Jessicurl Too Shea, Devacurl One Condition, Activate Hydrating Conditioner, Kenra Moisturizing Conditioner, and L’Oreal Vive Pro Hydra Gloss for dry hair, or Nutri Gloss for hair that’s curly/wavy conditioner. You can use a cheaper, silicone-free conditioner, like Suave Naturals or Vo5, to scrub your scalp during co-washes.
  •  I hope this information helps you in furthering your quest for frizz free, curly defined hair.

Happy Naturally curly,coily and kinky hair

TJ

One comment

  1. hair6821 says:

    Thank you for the compliment.

    TJ

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